Guppy SG

bbs

BBS (Baby Brine Shrimp) specifically Artemia nauplii, is a great live food for guppy fries.

BBS eggs sold by LFS (Local Fish Shops) tend to be over-priced. Some don’t store them properly (in cooler setups) which shortens their shelf life.

If you are a fellow guppy hobbyist in Singapore, welcome to get some free BBS eggs samples from me to try out.

Just happy to share and to recommend good local BBS egg sellers.

I don’t earn commission in doing so, and I just want to ensure you don’t buy from the bad sellers.

Pls join our telegram group and ask for free BBS eggs samples there:

We often have hobbyists buying in bulk and selling them cheaply, repackaged into 100grams smaller packs. Each 100gram pack is enough for most hobbyists feed dozens of guppies daily for 2-3 months.

If you prefer to buy in bulk, try getting Hong Jie （红姐）BBS from Tabao.

Unfortunately, they can’t ship direct to Singapore for customs reasons. If you are visiting China or have friends who can help bring back, it’s just 92RMB (18+ SGD) for a 500grams pack.

There’s 3rd party shippers who can send your BBS eggs purchased online, from China to Singapore. Costs 10sgd or less per pack of 500gram.

If you find it too much hassle to arrange for shipping, you can buy from a few parallel import resellers in Singapore.

They price them at 40 - 60sgd per 500gram pack, up to 2X to 3X mark up of price.

Some hobbyists in our group buy them, and repackage them for sale at 12sgd per 100grams.

In Singapore, Shopee and other online vendors sell BBS eggs at 16sgd per 100gram pack. Aquarium shops (LFS) sell at double or triple that price.

Speak to us in https://t.me/singaporefish if you want some help getting BBS eggs.

Here is why BBS are so good for guppies:

1. High Nutritional Density

Newly hatched brine shrimp carry an energy-rich yolk sac (the protein and lipid-heavy “egg yolk”).

  • Proteins: Essential for the rapid tissue and muscle growth of guppy fry.

  • Lipids/Fats: Provide the high-octane energy needed for their incredibly fast metabolisms.

  • Amino Acids: Support healthy organ development during the first few weeks of life.

2. The “Instinctual” Trigger

Guppy fry are natural hunters. BBS move with a jerky, erratic swimming motion that triggers a guppy’s predatory strike instinct.

  • Unlike powdered flakes that just sit on the surface or sink to the bottom, BBS stay suspended in the water column, encouraging fry to hunt actively.

  • This constant movement ensures even the “shy” fry are motivated to eat.

3. Perfectly Sized for “Gape” Limits

A major challenge with guppy fry is their small mouths.

  • BBS are microscopic (roughly 400 to 500 microns), making them the perfect size for a 1-day-old guppy fry to swallow whole.

  • As the fry grow, they can continue to eat BBS as a supplement to larger foods.

4. Water Quality Benefits

Overfeeding is the #1 killer of fry, usually because uneaten flake food rots and causes ammonia spikes.

  • Live Stay Alive: BBS can survive in freshwater for several hours (sometimes up to 5-8 hours).

  • Because they remain alive and swimming, they don’t decompose immediately, giving the fry a longer window to “graze” without fouling the tank water.

5. Color Enhancement

BBS are naturally rich in carotenoids. When guppies consume these pigments early in life, it can lead to:

  • Brighter oranges, reds, and yellows in their tails.

  • Better overall luster and “shine” as they reach maturity.

Creating a DIY Baby Brine Shrimp (BBS) hatchery is a rite of passage for many guppy breeders. It’s a cost-effective way to ensure your fry get the best start with high-protein live food without spending a fortune on commercial kits.

Here is a guide on how to build a reliable, inverted-bottle hatchery using simple household items.

The Concept: Why Inverted?

Brine shrimp cysts (eggs) need constant tumbling and aeration to hatch. By turning a soda bottle upside down, you create a conical bottom that prevents “dead zones” where eggs can settle and rot.

Materials Needed

  • 2x Empty 1.5L or 2L Soda Bottles (Rounder bottles work best for airflow).

  • Air pump, airline tubing, and a check valve.

  • A rigid air tube (optional, but helps positioning).

  • Drill or a heated metal skewer.

  • Silicone sealant or a rubber grommet.

  • A craft knife or heavy-duty scissors.

Step 1: Preparing the “Stand” and the “Reactor”

  1. The Reactor: Take your first bottle and cut the bottom off completely. This will be your main hatching vessel.

  2. The Stand: Take the second bottle and cut it about 1/3 of the way down from the top. Discard the top half. You now have a base that the first bottle can sit in securely when flipped upside down.

Step 2: Modifying the Cap

The cap is the most critical part, as it must be airtight while allowing air to pump in.

  1. The Hole: Use a drill or a heated skewer to poke a hole through the center of the soda bottle cap. The hole should be slightly smaller than your airline tubing for a snug fit.

  2. The Seal: Push about an inch of airline tubing through the hole. Apply a generous amount of aquarium-safe silicone sealant around the tube on both the inside and outside of the cap.

  3. Curing: Let the silicone dry for at least 24 hours.

    Tip: If you don’t want to wait for silicone, you can buy “irrigation connectors” or specialized “hatchery caps” online that screw directly onto soda bottles.

Step 3: Assembly & Airflow

  1. Screw the modified cap onto your “Reactor” bottle.

  2. Place the bottle upside down into your “Stand.”

  3. Connect the airline tubing to your air pump. Always use a check valve between the bottle and the pump to prevent saltwater from back-siphoning into your electronics if the power fails.

Operating Your Hatchery

Once your DIY rig is ready, follow these quick parameters for a successful hatch:

  • The Mix: Use 1 liter of dechlorinated water and 1 to 2 tablespoons of non-iodized salt (aquarium salt or rock salt works well).

  • Temperature: Aim for 26°C – 30°C. If your room is cool, placing a small desk lamp near the bottle provides both the necessary light and a bit of warmth to speed up the hatch.

  • Harvesting: After 18–24 hours, turn off the air. Let it sit for 5–10 minutes. The empty shells will float to the top, and the bright orange baby shrimp will settle at the bottom. Since your tube is at the very bottom, you can simply drain the concentrated shrimp into a sieve.

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

Are we allowed to courier fly in BBS eggs into singapore?

The short answer is yes, you can generally courier or fly in Brine Shrimp (BBS) eggs (cysts) into Singapore, but there are specific rules depending on whether you are doing this for personal use or for a commercial project.

Since BBS eggs are technically “fish feed” for ornamental fish rather than food for human consumption, they fall under the jurisdiction of the Animal and Veterinary Service (AVS), which is part of NParks.

1. For Personal Use (Small Quantities)

If you are flying back with a small amount in your luggage or ordering a small batch via courier for your own tanks:

  • Permit: Generally, small quantities for personal use do not require a formal import license.

  • Quantity: There isn’t a strictly “hard” limit like the 30-egg rule for chicken eggs, but it must be a “reasonable” amount for personal hobbyist use.

  • Prohibited Items: Ensure the BBS eggs are just the cysts (dried) and do not include any “live” wet starters or prohibited hitchhikers (like snails or aquatic plants), as those are much more strictly regulated.

2. For Commercial or “Project” Use

If you are bringing them in for a business or a large-scale project (like a community farm or consultancy work):

  • Licensing: You would technically need a Licence to Import or Export Ornamental Fish (which covers related products like feed) if the volume is large.

  • Customs Declaration: Any shipment coming via courier with a value exceeding S$400 will be subject to the prevailing 9% GST.

  • TradeNet: Commercial imports require a permit declaration through the TradeNet system using the appropriate HS Code (typically under 0511 for animal products or 2309 for animal feeds).

Key Tips for a Smooth Arrival:

  • Keep Original Packaging: If the eggs are in their original, sealed commercial tins or foil bags, they are much less likely to be flagged by ICA/AVS. Clear labels showing they are Artemia cysts help avoid confusion with restricted items.

  • Courier Restrictions: Check with the courier specifically. Some consider “eggs” a restricted item by default and may ask for a “Non-CITES” declaration or a simple statement that they are for ornamental fish feed.

Summary: If it’s a few tins for your personal breeding setups, you should be fine to courier them in or pack them in your check-in bag. If you’re bringing in bulk for a larger project, you’ll want to ensure the GST and import declarations are handled by the courier.

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